| One of the most common problems I hear from breeders are crop issues during handfeeding. I can share with you a few tips that have worked quite well for me but always consult an avian professional before beginning any kind of treatment. Slow crops are often the result of chicks getting chilled, whether in the nest box or in a brooder. It can sometimes be yeast or bacteria as well. We can only guess at times what the cause is, so the most important step is to add heat. Depending on age, you want to have a source of heat as high as 90 to 95 degrees for a chick that is not emptying. That works well for me. Nothing will really work until you are able to get the chick warm. The next step is emptying the crop. If you have never done this, you will need to learn this from your avian vet. After I empty the crop, I let the chick sit back in the brooder for a good 30 minutes. Then I make a mixture of Pedialyte and Prozyme, (digestive additive) I also use a product called Aloe Detoxification. This is a liquid gel made by Naturade that is completely safe. I mix 2cc's of this and warm this to 102- 104 degrees. I feed about 2cc's total and leave the chick to empty. (Use less on very young chicks) Every hour I check on the chick and feed the same amount up to 3 times a day. The Aloe gel helps to keep the crop moving, along with the Prozyme. I do not feed formula until the crop is moving and starts to empty. Once the crop is moving, I start adding formula but not too thick and then use the Aloe Detox twice a day. The formula should not be too thinned down once the chick is processing. This remedy has worked for me. The Aloe Detox can be found at most health food stores. It has been noted as being very beneficial in Day One chicks. It is a wonderful treatment to prevent the onset of yeast. My suggestion is to add 2-4 cc's to each 2 scoops formula made as a preventative. It literally has no taste and can be given orally as well. These products are not harmful medications but merely a holistic approach to helping a chick empty. Other medications can come in handy. Nystatin and Baytril are the choice of medications for most slow crops. You can now buy Medistatin, a powder form of nystatin, (see N.H. Bird Supply) If you suspect your chick has yeast and bacteria, seek medical advice immediately. It is important to recognize the signs early and act quickly. An air filled crop, can indicate bacteria. Large, red veins (inflammation) in the crop can be crop burn, or a slightly scalded crop. Many breeders tend to over-feed their chicks during handfeeding. I have even seen my own parent birds do this in the nest. Usually, we like to use a crop bra when they see an over-stretched crop, (vet tape is made into a sling to hold the crop up) My advice is, don't over feed. The crop should be rounded but not stuffed to where air comes up around the shoulders. Feeding less more frequently can solve this problem often. Though some cockatiels are prone to having stretched crops, one can minimize the problem buy feeding less at one time. Avoid feeding your parent breeders soft, cooked foods. I never feed them anything hot or cooked during breeding. I offer lots of millet sprays and Whole Wheat breads, some fresh greens, along with their normal diet. Another trick is using Grapefruit Seed Extract, known as GSE in their drinking water a couple times a week. This helps ward off bacteria/yeast problems. You can find this also at any health food store. I mix 2 drops in a gallon of water for the flock. Having a healthy diet is where it all begins and so I encourage feeding your cockatiels a balanced diet, high in vitamins. Using Probiotics can also be helpful, especially after sickness or antibiotic therapy. I hope you will find these tips useful. Happy Breeding, NJM |